Should we move the node too much to the left side, the main histogram will touch the right axis more and more: clipped! Please note that RawTherapee’s main histogram – that reflects the effects of the tools we use – changes during this action: it moves to the right. If you activate the ‘ Clipped highlight indication‘ (click the icon on top of the application window or hit the keyboard shortcut ‘<‘, less than), you can see when things start to clip. If you move the node too far to the left, you will loose details in the highlights. The first thing I do is to move the upper right node (the black dot) a bit to the left, somewhere to the point where the histogram ‘stops’. Remember, this is a raw file without any post-processing applied, that’s why the histogram in the tone curve window isn’t well balanced. Keep the drop down menu on the right on Standard. In the toolbox, go to the Exposure tab and click in the first entry (also called Exposure) on the arrow in the Tone curve 1 section (indicated in red here)… It is easy to bring this nef on par with the jpg. You can see as well the effect of my standard exposure compensation setting of -0.3 EV to avoid blown-out highlights: the histogram does not touch the right vertical axis. It simply looks better ( for now, that is). As you can clearly see, the jpg is brighter (because in-camera processed) and the histogram more balanced. Click on one of the photos and you can toggle between them with the mouse or the arrow keys on your keyboard. You’ll likely be extremely over or underexposed for starters if you don’t begin your processing journey here first.As a reference I include the JPG that was produced by my camera (I shoot raw+jpg most of the time). If you are going to go this route for processing, I would START here first before adjusting anything else because changing the profile drastically points your image in a certain direction. The tone curve being the predominant one. There are a couple of other check boxes on this tab that you’ll definitely want to toy around with. I have a Sony and I found the standard, deep, clear, landscape, neutral and so on profiles. You’ll eventually stumble across the profiles within your camera. Somewhere in adobe’s folders I forget exactly where. Click on the custom button and poke around for where your camera profiles are saved on your machine. I think by default it looks for the “auto-matched” profile, which isn’t quite what it sounds like. Under the color tab, look for color management. There is a way to look up camera matched profiles within Lightroom or other Adobe products. When using one of those you still have the option to (not) use some of the embedded stuff ( Tone curve or Baseline exposure to name 2).ĮDIT: Download location for Adobe DNG Converter Nikon D750 Camera Monochrome (Yellow Filter).dcp.Nikon D750 Camera Monochrome (Red Filter).dcp.Nikon D750 Camera Monochrome (Orange Filter).dcp.Nikon D750 Camera Monochrome (Green Filter).dcp.You don't mention which Nikon you have, but, as an example, here are the profiles that are available for the D750: You can use these in RawTherapee's Color Management module (Input profile -> custom). After installation there will be 2 directories created that hold camera specific profiles (Adobe's own and Camera specific.). One thing isn't mentioned specifically and needs to be said: Your camera profile, flat/landscape/portrait/etc, is not part of the RAW file, so nothing is overwritten (that specific info just isn't there to begin with).Īs mentioned by u/ice6418, there are profiles available that (try to) mimic those that can be set in-camera.ĭownload and install Adobe DNG Converter (it's free).
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